In our endeavor to help you understand the true standards of handmade bespoke tailoring, we have handpicked few vital points you might want to consider before investing in your next luxury suit.
“True Benefits of a Handmade Floating Canvas Suit over a fused machine made suit”
Let’s take a deep sea dive into the world of true handmade bespoke suits and what goes into making one, The culture of handmade suits took birth in the city of London and today all across the world bespoke handmade suits are considered extremely luxurious, like a piece of art and craftsmanship. Here are some quick pointers to help you make a more far – sighted and wiser judgement about a suit you intend on buying.
A fused suit requires below average level of expertise as it’s more of a labor intensive work than actually craftsmanship. Generally these suits are made in factories in assembly line setups or even if it’s a tailored suit then again it will be measured by someone, cut by someone else and finally stitched by another person. You will end up having a suit which only fits you slightly better than an off the shelf suit and both of them will feel the same as the features and cons remain similar.
Whereas in a true bespoke handmade suit, one Master Tailor does the entire job right from the start to the finishing and it takes him a lot of preparatory measurements to draw up the design and outline the cuts which will further enhance your body shape. Hand pick stitching is done on the lapels, pockets and vents, and the buttons are hand sewed. Nearly 4000-5000 hand stitches run across the suit to give it the desired structure and shape which stays for a lifetime.
COMFORT & WEARABILITY
A fused coat stiffens the cloth slightly which adds to the discomfort and does not provide the soft padding support required to provide a better level of comfort to the wearer, Also because the fusing is glued to the fabric, there is no breathability left in the fabric which causes further discomfort in hot and moist weather.
A Handmade floating canvas suit follows the contours of the body more naturally because of the free floating canvas inside resulting in less surface tension and a sharper look on the outside. The overall fit looks more relaxed and elegant without compromising on the form. The canvas also expands and contracts depending upon the body’s heat, creating a more organic fit and allowing better breathability in hot and humid conditions.
DURABILITY & LIFE
A fused suit will show rigidness and signs of bubbling with time especially in the lapels and the chest area (this is caused when the cloth separates from the fusing) making it less durable. Therefore it ends up losing its structure and flexibility with time.
Canvas aids in the longevity of the suit by distributing tension at stress points (shoulders, Chest & Waist), it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning. The suit tends to become rather better in fit with time because the canvas adjusts to your body measurements constantly.
Time taken to produce a fused suit is approximately 8-12 hours on a machine. There is usually only one trial given to the client which is also a formality as the fusing has already been pasted to the suit fabric and not much can be adjusted in terms of the structure and shape of the suit, only ease is adjusted making the suit lose or tight as per the clients wish.
A True Bespoke handmade canvas suit takes whooping 45-60 man hours, making it a very skillful process, in order to achieve the high standards of handmade tailoring set by Savile row London. There are usually at least two trials given to the client. One is a test fit trial on a less expensive fabric and second one is a final Baste fit trial after hand basting the floating canvas with the original luxurious fabric.
With a machine-made fused coat, a special synthetic material is used called “Fusing” which effectively turns to glue from one side when heated. It does a lot of harm to your luxurious fabric making it rough and un-breathable from inside. Fusing is used to give the fabric an added weight and fall, but it ends up making the suit extra heavy giving it a flat and lifeless feel unlike that of a full canvas suits.
Whereas in a true bespoke suit the most expensive trims available such as real horse hair canvas, unique buttons, silk buttonhole threads and soft cotton handmade shoulder pads etc will only be used, which are very difficult to source and are unique. Genuine Canvas is typically a blend of wool, cotton, and horse hair. Once padded with the suit, It feels like a separate piece of cloth underneath the outer cloth, “floating” independently, much like how the silk inner lining also floats independently of the outer garment. The lapels take a natural curl, because of the horse hair that is being used.
WHAT SHOULD BE THE PRICE?
A typical machine made fused suit should be at least 4 times less expensive than a true handmade bespoke suit because of the cheap trims used and less time taken. Fabrics used are also relatively very cheap, but at times due to lack of awareness luxury clients in India tend to buy expensive fabrics with fused construction since 99 % of the tailoring houses in India don’t offer true bespoke Handmade full canvas suits but still they do offer luxury fabrics on sale. Price range: 3000 to 20000 INR.
A handmade full floating canvas suit has the best of the ingredients and craftsmanship required for the high standards of fit and finish which is unlike any other, and all of this comes at an additional price which seems extremely well justified, once you wear a bespoke handmade suit which compliments your body in the best possible way ! Price range: 35000 INR and upwards depending on the fabric.
Kindly note: If you are buying a suit length upward of 15000 INR we highly recommend that you only choose handmade floating canvas construction to complement your luxurious fabric.
Hoping that now you can comprehend very well, what a true handmade bespoke suit has to offer over a regular fused machine made suit. At Meraki Brothers we are striving on achieving the best possible handmade tailoring and fitting standards in India. We need your support and valuable feedback, so that we can together earn great pride and respect in the field of bespoke tailoring for the “Made in India” tag as well.
To get more information, visit us on – www.merakibrothers.com
Or contacts us on – Info@merakibrothers.com / 9650068075, 9810316023