The whole purpose behind getting a bespoke suit made is that it should fit you flawlessly, without you having to worry about the minor details that are a matter of concern when we talk about an off-the-rack suit.
The very first detail to keep in mind after you've worn the suit is to stand in your natural stance with your arms relaxed by your side with a straight back, because it's your posture that determines the fit.
Let's take a step by step look into the key areas of concern, as we at Meraki Brothers not only vow to offer you the desired fit but also help you understand better on how a fit makes all the difference to a suit.
Meraki Brothers - Guidelines on how a suit should fit
- SHOULDER DIVOTS – The first thing you check after you've worn the jacket is to see if the shoulders lie flat If you see a dent that dips right under your shoulder and protrudes back out, it means your shoulders are too big, in which case you need to go a size down, so that the seam where the shoulder meets the sleeve falls right where your body’s shoulder is, if you feel stiffness and see signs of stress on fabric of your upper area of biceps then the sleeve are too tight for you from the shoulder joint.
- SHOULDER RUMPLING – The bunches that form on top of your shoulder, clearly signify that the jacket is too big on the shoulder, which is more likely due to the interior space being too large. This can also be because of the incorrect shoulder slope as in off the rack jackets all shoulders are cut on a fix angle and in reality every person has little high or low shoulders than normal.
- JACKET FIT – The next detail you notice after you button the jacket is, if you see the lapel falling forwards ( in which case the jacket is loose) or you see wrinkles radiating from the closure ( in which case the jacket is tight). Buttoning the jacket shouldn't be a struggle and there shouldn't be any wrinkles forming after the closure.
- THE CHEST – If the jacket is too big, you will notice lumps of fabric getting collected in front of the armholes and on the contrary, if the chest is too small, the lapel will pull and not lay flat and you might notice creases right under your armhole at the back.
- SLEEVE LENGTH – Checking where your jacket sleeve falls with the shirt sleeve is again of prime importance to get the look right. The shirt cuff should be precisely half an inch visible from beneath the jacket sleeve, making sure the seam that joins the cuff and shirt sleeve is not visible (but a part of the cuff should always be visible )or the whole cuff shouldn't slip under the jacket’s sleeve.
- SLEEVE PITCH – The sags or the spirals that form on the outside of the sleeve when you stand in an upright posture can usually be rectified when you remove and reattach the sleeve at a different angle so it falls in the way it was constructed.
- JACKET COLLAR – Checking the fit of the jacket collar is just as important when paying attention to every detail to get the fit right in the first place. The jacket collar should lie right above where the shirt collar lies and should fit the same way till the back. If the collar does not sit it place, it will probably sag at the back, in which case the collar is big, and notice, on the contrary a tight collar would create horizontal wrinkles just beneath the collar and would leave wrinkles on the shirt collar beneath it.
- BACK OF THE SUIT - What you need to make sure when checking the fit across the back is if you spot any pulling or horizontal crease lines at the back, which indicates that the waist suppression is too tight, and in order to get that in place, you need to make sure that the vents of your suit hang perpendicular to the ground.
- JACKET LENGTH – The perfect or the precise length of the jacket is the one that goes past your waist and stops right where the outward bump of your hind starts to curve out If the hem of the jacket rests on the bottom then the length of the jacket is too short, or if it runs past the bottom the length is too long. Make sure to always stand in your natural posture in order to check the fit and length.
- THE SEAT – A good seat would drape smoothly over the posterior without pulling from the side or the bottom, while on the other hand a bad fit would either show up in the form of horizontal wrinkles formed right under the posterior (which is supposed to be too tight) or would create a sag hanging downwards which indicates the trouser is too loose.
- THE BREAK – The most subtle feature to your whole look is the horizontal wrinkle that gets created when the bottom of the trouser rests on top of your shoe, which is called a break. Just one wrinkle should be good enough, but to make sure the backside of the trouser stops right where the heel of your shoe starts.
Hoping the pointers we shared above will help you understand better on how a suit should fit. At Meraki Brothers we promise to deliver you flawless fitting whether you choose to get a new bespoke suit made from us or you can also get your old luxury suits re-altered from us to give them new life.
To get more information, visit us on – www.merakibrothers.com
Or contacts us on – Info@merakibrothers.com / 9650068075, 9810316023